What a long strange trip it was

I have to say from the start that this Burning Man was definitely not my best.  I arrived physically and emotionally tired from my default life.  A rapidly worsening knee problem followed me to the playa. My bike arrived with a flat back tire. A sense of disengagement dogged me throughout the week. My crowd fear kicked in.  I felt lonely, which I don’t usually have a problem with.

This happens. Not every year can be a great year. Last year I was bursting with energy. This year I had none.  I did have some fun. Met some nice people. Saw some cool stuff. But I will tend to think of this year as the year of unfulfilled promise.  You always miss things at Burning Man. I just missed more than usual.

The week started with some logistical craziness. I always arrive early Tuesday morning, right at sunrise, after spending the night in Susanville. On Monday, before I left, I was glued to the webcast, watching a deserted playa, damp and puddled. It was obvious that the Gate was closed.

As I pondered how that might affect my Tuesday morning arrival, my husband called to inform me that my route over Highway 299 was compromised at Weaverville, with a fire that had already closed the road once and was threatening to do so again. At the very least, I would likely find myself in backed-up controlled traffic, breathing heavy smoke. At the worst, I would get turned around. After some quick checking, I decided to take a huge detour. Instead of driving directly east to Redding and Susanville, I drove north to Oregon, then east and back south again, until I connected with Highway 89 by Mount Shasta.

My detour added an extra 3 1/2 hours to my driving day, but once I got off the I-5 segment at Mount Shasta, it was clear sailing with beautiful scenery and nice weather.

DSC02775I stopped to sniff the pine trees before continuing on to Susanville.  The manager of my favorite motel in Susanville, The River Inn, gave me an extra detour-to-Oregon discount that beat my AAA discount. Was that cool or what?
After getting my room, I went out for pizza and beer. Got the WORST service ever in a place not known for good service. sigh. Took my leftovers back to the room (food for the next day or so), had a beer, watched a little television, tried to find news about the gate closure, called my best friend and had her look stuff up, and finally called my husband for a final logistics powwow about the closure. We decided that whatever I saw when I got to Highway 447 in the morning would determine my subsequent decisions. Good enough. Time for bed. I set up a 3:15 a.m. wake-up call to back up my 2;45 wake up time and went to bed.
No problem getting up in the morning, and I even puttered around a bit to wait for the wake-up call at 3:15, because I didn’t want to bother cancelling it, and I wanted to force myself to wait for that gate opening. I drank a couple of cans of iced coffee and headed out for my super secret spooky desert route, aka the Wendell cutoff, Sand Pass road, Surprise Valley road, and Smoke Creek road.
Most of my drive was in the dark. I drove slowly, as usual, and I noticed that I was a bit heavy in the rear. No major biggie. The truck still handled fine on the gravel curves. I watched the sky lighten as I made the bend to the east and began to approach Highway 447. As I rolled to a stop, an obvious burner came into sight from my left, coming south on 447. Yay! Road open, let’s roll!

I pulled onto the highway after the vehicle passed, and I cruised the last 7 miles to the turn. As I took the shortcut turn at the refuse transfer station, sunrise began over the mountains to the east. Traffic was light, and spaced nicely as I drove the final few miles to the turn off-pavement. The recent rain made the slow cruise to the Gate a dust-free cruise.

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The census people wanted to know why everybody was following each other in one lane. I said because there weren’t very many of us and we were spacey and following taillights. That’s my story and I’m sticking with it.

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The census, Gate, and Greeters all went quickly, and I was at my campsite less than a half hour past my original pre-closure timeframe. The weather was perfect, my spot was open, and I was ready to set up my home. Home is important to me, because I’m a major introvert. Burning Man can be hard on us introverts, so we need a refuge. I put a lot of effort into my refuge.
I got my tent up quickly, and, thanks to the glory of bungee balls (omg, my first year with these sweeties), my shade structure went up with amazing speed. I didn’t even need help this time. How strange. Of all things that went completely right, my strung together, catawampus shade structure went up like it had a blueprint or something. Imagine that. It pays to review your previous year’s structure and make changes. And bungee balls are definitely my BFF’s.
I was glad for the success of the shade structure and accompanying patio floor, because the flat back tire on my bike was a major disappointment. That meant I would have to walk to town (I camp at 5:20 and K). With my bad knee, that was bad news. Whatever. I did it anyway. Hobbled all the way to Center camp and the Man. Wandered the Souk, which I loved and wish I had spent more time at. Ultimately, the Russian Library caught my attention. That’s foreshadowing.

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DSC02799This charming zebracorn provided me with unexpected entertainment. I was so entranced that I forgot to pull out my camera. As I was walking away from the Man perimeter, 4 people approached from the opposite direction. They spotted the zebracorn and were instantly captivated. One of the women ran over and climbed aboard. She turned it on and began driving in circles.  I was laughing and staring over toward the Souk, wondering if a frantic zebracorn driver would come pelting out. Then the woman’s friends joined in. Another climbed aboard with the first. They did a few spins and whoops. They climbed down and let their other friend on. More circles and whoops. I was walking backwards, watching their fun. No frantic zebracorn driver. The group tired of their ride and moved on.

When I limped my way back home after visits to the cafe, post office, and other landmarks, I discovered that I had a tiny blister from not wearing socks with my crocs. Are you kidding? I haven’t had a blister in 20 fucking years. Oh well. Lots of moleskin. May as well use it before it rots.

DSC02800Just down the street from me, the world famous Octopus was playing cool music and waving its arms. I caught the rather-calioppe-sounding music on the Octopus when I made a trek to the portapotties.

Later in the day, I took my bike for a walk, tracking down one of the bike repair shops I had read about at Playa Info. The one I was really looking for wasn’t on the list, but as I walked to the address of the listed one, I encountered the one I really wanted: Elliott’s Bicycle Repair and Tap Room. Oh yeah. But it was closed for the day. Damn. Shit. I noted the open hours for the following day and limped on to the other repair shop. They were also closed, as best I could tell, and seemed to be mostly self-serve.

I had brought most of my own bicycle repair stuff, but not having had a regular bike for many years, I wasn’t comfortable dealing with the weird gear changer on my back wheel (and it turned out that the “tool kit” my husband had in his truck, compared to MY tool kit I usually carried, was missing anything that could loosen my back wheel bolts). So I slowly limped home, saying a second hello to the two guys in the shade of that RV around4:30 and J (Saying hello to them became a habit).

Having used up my leg power and knee, I spent the evening on my marvelous patio, drinking beer. And didn’t notice yet that I wasn’t very hungry (I based my food supply on my previous year’s consumption).

Due to overworking my knee during the day, I didn’t go out wandering on Tuesday night.

DSC02802Morning dawned bright and beautiful. DSC02803I love morning on K Street.

DSC02804A spectacular day awaits.

I headed slowly to Center Cafe for coffee. Early morning at the cafe is my favorite time. It is quiet. Many people sleeping here and there. Some strange thing happening on the main stage, with an audience of sleeping people.

DSC02806The Man presides over sunrise as I approach Center Camp.

DSC02807Some people never see Center Cafe this way, nearly empty, quiet, coffee-scented morning vibe.

DSC02809I love the Cafe when it is like this. On Thursday, during the big wind, it was standing room only, sardine time, no calm, no quiet.

DSC02811After taking some pictures of the quiet cafe and sleeping people, I discovered that I had forgotten to bring money for coffee. Damn it! It’s not like I didn’t have plenty of cans of iced coffee back at camp, but I was in the mood to sip a hot cup while watching the morning blossom on the playa. Oh well. I hobbled my way back home and spent the morning adding decorative touches to my patio.

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DSC02820I set up my dolls with their own party oasis.

When it was about time to head over to Elliott’s Bike Repair, my nice neighbors informed me that one of them had a flat tire, and wanted to know if they could tag along. So we all trudged the few blocks to the repair shop, pushing our bikes.  We got there right at the start of the repair hours, so we were close to the head of the fix-it line.  Elliott started working on my bike, after eying my strange gear changer for a minute. He said my tube may have exploded when I went to higher elevation. It was the original tube, so I wasn’t surprised. I had a spare, and Elliott had me up and running in no time. In the meantime, his friend was hosting the Tap Room portion of the operation, and we sipped beer in the shade while waiting for my neighbor’s bike to be fixed. He had the wrong tube, so he donated that in exchange for the right one.

I met a very nice young man while I was waiting (and SO cute, omg). He was friendly and sweet, and had a gorgeous smile (stop that, you dirty old lady). We chatted while our stuff was being fixed, and later in the day I happened to stop at a camp for margaritas, realized I had forgotten my ID, and was asking if I looked old enough (I most definitely do). That’s when I discovered that one of the bartenders was the cute guy I had met earlier. He said he knew me and I got my margarita. When I left I got a hug too.

I spent the rest of the day exploring the streets in my part of town, dancing to drums on one street (ouch), watching a zipline on another street, having that margarita, saying hi to those guys in the RV shade, dropping off a postcard at the post office (and donating some stamps and post cards), visiting with my neighbors, and drinking beer. In the early evening, I spent an hour at a meet and greet, but I didn’t feel that comfortable with the people there so I headed on home, strung my LED xmas lights, drank a beer, and went to bed.

DSC02823The next day dawned bright and beautiful, so I headed out on the playa. The blasted Embrace thing was creeping me out from a distance, so I rode over to see if it was less creepy close up. Not. I DID NOT like this piece of art. It was like some creepy aliens pushing out of the dirt to breed. It invoked no positive response in me at all.

DSC02824Saying no thanks to the creepy statue, I cruised on past and headed for the trash fence. I like the trash fence.

DSC02830BLM was patrolling outside the trash fence as usual. And there were assorted people just sitting by the trash fence, or sleeping.

DSC02831I found this cabinet out there, so I put my Paul Revere doll in front of it. The cabinet appeared to be some sort of “cabinet of curiosities” idea, but it was poorly executed. Just a tape recorder playing a woman telling a story. This concept was neat, but whoever did it did not put much thought and effort into it. I was disappointed.

DSC02834 After a few pictures, I continued on to the corner of the trash fence. The playa and city look different from the trash fence corner.

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DSC02837Selfie at the corner.

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DSC02839The other side of the fence.

DSC02845I headed back toward the city. I was going to stop and look at the temple, but there was a big crowd there doing something next to Fedora Man.

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DSC02853I stopped to see the Skull of Actaeon.

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DSC02851I liked the shrines in the eyes.

DSC02855I eventually pedaled back to camp and put the dolls in party mode.

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DSC02866My knee was hurting, so I spent most of the rest of the day hanging out on my patio. I wandered far enough to meet some neighbors across the street, down the street, and behind me. We had a very nice little neighborhood going. Everybody exchanged some gifts and background. I made  bloody marys with bacon for myself and my neighbor, John.

DSC02869This was my tent palace.

DSC02873There was a beautiful sunset that evening.

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DSC02886A couple of black helicopters buzzed the neighborhood as the sun was setting.

DSC02890My solar lights were showing fun patterns.

DSC02900I headed back downtown on my bike after dark to see the Core burn. My knee immediately started hurting, so I parked myself not far off the Esplanade, with my bike lights for visibility. I opened a beer and watched the night life around me.

DSC02905I hadn’t been paying attention as I watched the lights moving to and fro, so I was rather startled when the giant fireball erupted. If I wasn’t such a space case this year, the fireworks would have warned me. But no, I was just sitting there thinking, “ooh, pretty!”

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DSC02912I took a picture of the medical facility that I was near. I took it to remind people that Burning Man can be dangerous. Somebody did die this year.

At that point, completely frustrated with my knee, I decided to head back to camp. I got the pleasure of waiting and waving while a DPW parade went by.

DSC02914There were interesting clouds in the morning. Somebody said there was moisture from some tropical storm.

DSC02915Regardless of the source of the moisture, it made a beautiful sunrise.

DSC02918I got some coffee from the Cafe and sat outside watching the sunrise. This is my pre-coffee selfie.

DSC02920Sunrise is one of my favorite times of day.

DSC02921Since my knee wouldn’t let me ride out on the playa in search of sunrise shots, I just took pictures of what I could see from my Cafe pillow.

DSC02922Starting to get an inkling that the entire week might not be in my future, I thought to myself, “shit, I need to soak this in.”

DSC02923When I finished my coffee, I headed back to camp for some breakfast. I took pictures of my dolls that I had put in party overload mode the night before.

DSC02925This is actually a good representation of what I often see around the city on Friday.

DSC02926Friday, of course, was the day of wind. There’s always at least one of those. My neighbors had signed up for an art tour, so off they went. They came back a bit disappointed in their “whiteout” tour. Typical day in Black Rock City.

I spent the morning on my patio, trying to decide what to do. The wind blew. The dust flew. People pedaled by with dust masks on (I had bandannas, dust masks, and a respirator. It was my knee, not my lungs, keeping me off the streets). I got as far in my decision making as deciding that IF I stayed, I would need a book, because it was going to be a long weekend of sitting if I didn’t have something to read. I still hadn’t made a final decision about whether to stay or go. And I kicked myself for not having brought a book (who the hell has time to read at Burning Man?). I set out for a short ride downtown in search of reading material. I had already read the latest edition of the paper. The other paper, The Beacon, could not be found by me. After finding nothing around Center Camp, I decided to try the Russian Library out at the souk. It took some browsing, since most of the books were in Russian, but I finally found some young adult fiction by what looked like a Russian author.

I stopped at Arctica for ice before I left downtown, and then headed back to my camp to sulk mostly. The wind howled through the day, as I drank beer with my back to it. I read a little, but mostly thought about my options. I finally decided that, lacking anything stronger than tylenol and beer for my screaming knee, I was going to have to leave. Sigh. So much I hadn’t seen yet. Goddamn it!

One tip that a desert rat like me should know. If you are going to spend the day with your back to the wind, you should turn around once in a while and check your load-bearing poles. Unfortunately, I didn’t do that. Right around sunset, the wind was getting gusty and squirrely. The neighbors behind me had been gone all afternoon, and their stuff was starting to get blown around.

They apparently came back to their camp about that time, but I had ducked into my tent to get something. Suddenly I heard chaos outside. The wind had picked up and gone crazy for a minute. I stepped back out of my tent (I swear I was in there for less than 2 minutes) and found that my neighbors had “tped” my shade structure. They were running around chasing rolls of tp and paper towels, tubs and bins were blowing around, the other neighbors were grabbing loose items, tp was flapping all over the side of my patio, and then suddenly, in the last big gust, the one most load-bearing pole in my structure suddenly bent in half. Oh great. Why did I put the cheap pole on that corner, knowing that was the direction the wind came from most of the time?

Because the wind was still blowing hard, I immediately dropped my other poles and shoved my shade structure off to the side of my patio. If I had been staying, it would be an easy fix in the morning with no wind. I had spare poles. But I had already decided to go, so after another beer, my neighbors helped me pull up some of the stakes and fold up the shade cloth. That was nice, since it is hard to fold large objects in the wind.

When I told my neighbors that I was giving up because of my knee, they were sad (they were awesome neighbors and were having a ball), and they offered to help take down more stuff.  I told them to get the hell out into the city and have fun, because I had all evening to organize and pack.

DSC02928The windy day ended with a spectacular sunset and moonrise.

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A major part of my decision to leave included the decision to not go straight home. I was going to go find a quiet campground somewhere (Lassen Plateau) and spend the rest of my Burning Man week sitting under the pine trees (Pine Cone Man), with a restroom 200 feet away instead of 2 1/2 blocks. With this pleasant thought in mind, I spent the evening packing. I left the tent up and went to bed.

I got up early and packed up my tent, anxious to start a new phase of my vacation. I bid a fond farewell to my crazy city in the desert, and then I headed on out the Gate Road.

DSC02932The sun was rising over the playa when I left.

DSC02933I snapped a few pictures along my spooky desert route because I love this big open country.

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DSC02939One of my final turns before Susanville. In Susanville, I had some breakfast and then bought a book at the grocery store. Then I headed up to the Lassen Plateau to look for camping. The first place I tried had run out of water, so there were just a couple of creepy guys camping. Nope. I headed for another spot I had been many years before, but the road I was on was being repaved and the workers had removed ALL the signs for the roads connecting to it. There was supposed to be a road about 4 miles down the main road, but I was just cruising along enjoying the morning when I realized that I had definitely gone more than 4 miles.  I turned around, checked my map, checked a few side roads, and finally found the one I was looking for. Sort of. I actually ended up at a different lake just over the hill from the one I was looking for (who the hell put in all of those dirt roads back there?) Little campground. Hardly any people. Quiet. Pine trees. Okay, I’m home.

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DSC02948Home Sweet Home.

DSC02967Here’s the little lake. Not the prettiest little lake I’ve seen, but I couldn’t walk over there to look at it anyway (I drove, lol).

Aside from the fact that I love camping in pine trees at least as much as I love camping in the desert, this second phase of my trip had one major unexpected benefit. I took everything out of my truck, cleaned all the playa dust out of and off my truck, hung all my shadecloth and wall hangings for two days, organized everything, and put it back in the truck all clean and folded. THAT was awesome. It made arriving at home SO much nicer. And I had plenty of time. I stayed 2 1/2 days, reading and puttering.

DSC02944A couple of the dolls got to stay out for this part of the trip.

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DSC02957I was having a really good time, especially considering that the restroom was about as far as I could walk.

DSC02981Since I had only taken canned iced coffee to Burning Man, I heated it up with my little camp stove.

DSC02972Using the nightscene setting on my camera, I discovered that I could create my own Pine Cone Man light show by waving the camera around while pointing it at the colored lights on my tent. I’m sure I looked pretty silly in the early morning dark, waving my camera and giggling.

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DSC02951This one is with my white light setting, plus the solar lights.

DSC02954This was REALLY fun.

DSC02955This is without waving the camera around.

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DSC02992I really wanted to spend one more day here, but my cooler ice was almost gone, and I was out of coffee.

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I took one last look around at my Pine Cone Man camp before heading home.

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Burning Man webcast

http://www.ustream.tv/burningman

If you can’t go this year, or are leaving later in the week (I leave this morning and will be there tomorrow morning), the webcast is really fun to watch. I watched the lamplighters lighting the lights to the Man last night. This morning I’m watching lightning in the clouds. Looks like a bit of weather. Forecast says 30% chance of scattered thunderstorms. The radar backs that up. The city might get a shower.

My spooky desert route

I’m not sure I should give away my super secret spooky desert route to Burning Man, but hey, if you are like me and HATE any freeway or road with traffic, this is your kind of route.

My description of this route starts at Susanville, CA. Susanville is east of Redding, south of Alturas. You do not take Hwy 299 to Susanville. I leave the logistics of getting to Susanville to you. Once you are there, you take 395 east out of town.  Just out of town is the 395 North turn at the Johnsonville light. Take that. Now you are going to drive through some little towns (Standish, Litchfield). After Litchfield you will come to a big north bend. Right on the outer side of the bend is Wendell Road. Take it.

You are going to be on Wendell Rd for a while. It is paved all the way to the Nevada border. The rest of your journey will be OFF PAVEMENT until you reach the junction of hwy 447 about 7 miles north of the Burning Man turn-off.

Once off pavement in Nevada, the road will become High Rock Rd. You will be driving on it for a while. Eventually (the railroad crossing lets you know you are almost to your next turn), you will come to a T. There is a big sign there, full of bullet holes, that informs you it is Sand Pass Rd. A right turn would take you to Pyramid Lake and Fernley. You want to turn left. Sand Pass Rd becomes  Surprise Valley Rd in a short time. You will be on that road for quite a while. You have to drive all the way around the big valley before angling east to meet 447. About the time the road starts its angling east, it becomes Smoke Creek Rd. The entire route is good gravel road, with no confusing turn-offs. It takes me about 3 hours to get from Susanville to Hwy 447. I don’t drive that fast on gravel roads, and I do it in the dark, so you could probably beat that time during the day.

Once you get to 447, you turn right and drive about 7 miles to the left turn (transfer station or something) just before the main turn from Gerlach. Don’t miss that first turn, or you will have to turn left against all the traffic coming from Gerlach. The left turn out of the transfer station (restroom there!) is much easier, because the Gerlach traffic is more pulsed after their turn just down the road.

If you are heavily loaded and/or drive fast on gravel road, that’s a lot of road to get a flat tire on. Keep that in mind. Drive more slowly so you don’t have to unbury your spare. I’ve never had a flat using this route either to Fernley or Burning Man, but I am very careful. Since I travel alone, I do NOT want to be stuck changing a tire on a dark road at 4 a.m.

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My food is coming together

That tingle is growing. I did some shopping this morning, and I am almost done with both food and supplies. I still need to buy a few more perishables (cheese, steak), and I still need most of my beer.

DSC02765Stuff stuff stuff

DSC02766The V8 is for my homemade bloody mary mix.

DSC02767Lots of chips and goodies. Cocoa Krispies with ice cold whole organic milk are the goddamn fucking bomb.

 

DSC02768Bacon going in the oven soon. Niman Ranch bacon fucking rocks! Spendy though, so I got one of those and one Morrell.

DSC02769Honey stinger energy chews are fucking awesome. Canned green olive satisfy multiple urges. I’m taking only FOUR dill pickles this year.

DSC02770Vodka from our local distillery. Lemonheads of course.

DSC02772Coffee drinks and coconut water.

Pickles vs bacon

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Giant-Pile-of-BaconI’ve noticed that when people discuss food for Burning Man, pickles and bacon always come up, for obvious reasons, but there are some out there pushing the idea that bacon at Burning Man is passé.

For me, that’s right up there with the silliness about last year being the last good year and you are doing it wrong. These are both running gags now for a reason. Because they are utterly stupid.  Same goes for the bacon is out thing. I’m sorry, but unless you are a vegetarian (and I can’t count the number of vegetarians I’ve known who eat bacon, so that’s a shaky condition), you don’t get to say that bacon at Burning Man is doing it wrong. Nope. If you like pickles and aren’t into bacon, then, seriously, why do you feel the need to point out repeatedly that bacon is passé? You could simply say that you are not a bacon fan and that you think pickles are a better signature food for Burning Man. There, you’ve expressed your food opinion without telling others that they are eating wrong. Very simple.

Pickles and bacon are both popular at Burning Man because they are easy, available, tasty, provide salt, and can be easily shared. There are certainly many other tasty, easy, salty, zingy foods you can take, and it would be fun to compile a list of foods that fit that description, but pickles and bacon are the obvious defaults.  Soapboxing against bacon is like somebody complaining about Valentine’s Day because they aren’t in a relationship. I don’t whine about Secretary’s Day, nor do I bash pickles just because I happen to like bacon better.

Meat bars

I had been eying some Epic Meat Bars in the grocery checkout line. Today I finally caved and got a bison bacon cranberry bar.  I think it was the bacon that tipped the scales in favor of buying a ridiculously priced trendy food item. But, in its defense, it was actually quite tasty. Tasty enough that I might just have to throw a couple of these into my Burning Man food for the week. I am a fan of jerky, Slim Jims, and other formed, pressed dry meats, so my chances of liking this stuff were reasonable.

An Amazon reviewer posted, ‘The girl at Whole Foods said, “a meat bar – why would anyone eat a meat bar?” ‘, and this guy hates them , but I find them oddly appealing.  Of course, I also find Easy Cheese oddly appealing. Take what you want from that.

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